Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Happy New Year from the end of the world!!

There were two buses heading to Ushuaia that morning from Rio Gallegos, the first being "Marga" and ours being "Tecni Austral."  The buses left at the same time, but ours was held back at the Chilean border for some time, because one man had trouble with his papers.  We sat for almost an hour while he sorted them out

Back on the road, we were on our way.  The bus was filled with backpackers heading there for the same reason as us, to ring in the new year, as far south as you can pretty much get, (at least by bus).

The island of Tierra del Fuego is huge.  It's about half Argentina and half Chile.  Getting there is not as easy as it looks on the map.  It took about an hour from Rio Gallegos to the Chilean border, where we had to stamp in, and get our bags all checked by sniffing dogs, apparently looking for fruits and veggies, more than contraband.  Once stamped into Chile, we drove about an hour, until we hit the Strait of Magellan, where the bus boards a massive freight ship, with a ramp on the shore.  We all walked onto the ship, and the freighter crossed the Strait of Magellan, covered in a stormy looking sky, that made me imagine past explorers and conquistadors navigating the southern seas.





Once on the other side, the bus drove off the boat ramp, and onto solid ground, on Isla Tierra del Fuego.  We re-boarded, and we on our way to the Argentinian border again.  Another hour or so, and we had to all check back into Argentina, and stamp out of Chile, which luckily, is a much smoother, and quicker process than the other way around.  I thought that we were pretty close after that last border, especially after we made it to Rio Grande, the smaller city on the island.  We were still pretty far, and the day was turning into night, slowly.

We pulled into Ushuaia at 10:30 PM, making it a 14 hour bus ride in total, from Rio Gallegos...We were beat, but ready to party, if there was anything going on!  We literally ran from the bus stop up the hill towards our hostel we had reserved.  We arrived at the door of "Cruz del Sur Hostel," and they opened the door to a ton of people partying and eating inside, where they handed us empanadas.  We put our stuff in the dorm room, and came back upstairs to join the festivities, and met a group of Brazilians, who were super cool, and offered us "Cynar," a strangely good liquor made from artichokes.  Suddenly we realized that 2013 was minutes away from being over...Wow.  A new year, and sadly, the quickly approaching end of our amazing journey...Not so fast, we've still got a lot of ground to cover!






We made some new friends at our hostel, and ended up having a blast there.  The owners were the nicest people ever, and after our 2 nights that were reserved, we didn't realize there was nothing available in the whole city, due to the holiday season.  They let us crash on the floor in the living room for a couple more nights, and thanks to them we were able to make the most of our southernmost trip!

We walked all around the city, in the freezing cold 'summer,' with rain falling in and out of the day.  Ushuaia reminded me much of some cities I visited in Alaska several years ago, due to it's surroundings and temperature.  It was gorgeous.  Situated right on the Beagle Channel, with Chile just across the way, and some scattered sailboats and cruise ships, as well as Argentine naval vessels about the waterfront.  We walked up to the Martial Glacier, as it's called, and had the most incredible view of the city on our last day there, and were pleasantly surprised by the sunshine that greeted us atop...


 



We spent 4 nights at the hostel, and like I said, met some really cool people.  The group of Brazilians were awesome.  The night before we left, they gave us a shirt from their Sao Paulo Pub Crawl business, and told us we were welcome there if ever in Brazil...Next trip!  The mother at Cruz del Sur Hostel, Marisha, walked up to me with a bag of goodies for our bus journey, which was so nice of her.  What a great place to visit, and an amazing hostel.  We really lucked out.

Next morning was going to be a long one.  All the way back to Rio Gallegos with all the border hopping madness included.  We would wake up at 4 am to get packed up and head to our five o clock bus.  The sunrise over the very calm Beagle Channel was unbelievable.  Turned out, the drivers were the same as on the way there, and were 2 really nice guys.  Alejandro, the assistant, was so cool.  He spoke English very well, and loved talking to us.  I had told him the following day was going to be Danica's birthday, and during one of our many stops, he get everyone on the bus to sing for her, it was awesome.


 We made it back across the Strait of Magellan, this time with some pretty fierce and freezing wind and waves crashing aboard.  Back on the mainland, we once again stamped out of Chile, and into Argentina, hopefully the last time for a while anyways...We hit the bus station in Rio Gallegos at 7:15pm, just enough time for our continuing bus, aboard "Via Tac," up the Atlantic coast, to Puerto Madryn for Danica's 25th birthday, taking a huge chunk out of the country going north, and far away from the land of fire.

Monday, December 30, 2013

Rio Gallegos

That morning was exciting, to say the least.  Especially crossing through ANOTHER international border.  It was becoming second nature, and really, a lot of fun.  All we could think about was Ushuaia.  We had to spend the night in Rio Gallegos, for the bus to Ushuaia only leaves at 8 in the morning, so we were to arrive there, finally, on New Year's Eve.

We got to Rio Gallegos about 4PM, and walked all the way from the bus terminal, into town, which was probably a couple kilometers with all our stuff.  We walked into the first, and only hostel we could find, and checked into a dorm.  Pretty pricey, but they had a really nice kitchen, and the whole place was spotless.  Met an English guy there that was also taking the bus to Ushuaia the next morning.

Danica cooked a delicious pasta for dinner, and we slept, thinking that we were almost there...


Sunday, December 29, 2013

Border hopping, and more border hopping...South.

We had a couple weeks of window (actually more like a couple months), after we decided to go to Ushuaia for New Year's, to plan the whole thing out.  But, who really wants to spend their travel time figuring out buses and what-not?  Not us.  Infact, I've always been a procrastinator, but the funny thing about it all, was that we actually thought to book a hostel in Ushuaia for New Year's, but not a bus/flight/boat,etc. to get there...

Well, while still in Bolson, we did a little (a lot) of research on bus prices only, and I was actually at one point, a week before Christmas, super close to buying our bus tickets through a company called 'Taqsa' that passes right through El Bolson, all the way down to El Calafate.  It was pretty pricey, and infact, would have cost us about $300 US to get down to Calafate, then we'd still have to get to Ushuaia.  Bottom line was that buses in Argentina, although very nice, are the priciest so far on this trip...Yes, even more expensive than Chile!

So, after some research, and talking to our friends in Chile at the time, we decided to do a little bit of back-tracking, back up to Bariloche, and across the border to Osorno, where we'd spend the night, wake up, and jump on a Chilean bus, hop the border in reverse, and jump right back on Ruta Cuarenta, and head down through Argentina before crossing again, into Punta Arenas, Chile.  Also, on the map, Punta Arenas is pretty damn close to Ushuaia, but as much as I love maps, it's much more difficult than that, especially in this season (Hoidays/Summer in the south).  We hadn't booked anything further than Punta Arenas, and just sort of figured we'd be fine, and due to the distance between the two countries, and the fact that they literally 'share' Tierra del Fuego, we really thought it would be easy.

Upon our arrival to Punta Arenas, after our brutal 28 hour bus ride from Osorno, and our numerous border crossings, of just basically filling our passports with useless stamps, and not to mention useless searches (with dogs) of our luggage coming from Chile, and back into Chile, we were back IN CHILE, in Punta Arenas...Quite a beautiful sky upon arrival, and numerous cruise ships lining the shoreline, we had actually made it down south, real far south.  We found a hostel for the night at "El Mirador," a family run place with an incredibly friendly and helpful woman working the desk, frantically trying to find us transportation to Ushuaia.  I told her our plans to spend the end of the year there, and our reservation at a hostel, but she still ensured me that if for some reason we were unable to, Punta Arenas was (also) a great place to bring it in...Sweet lady.  We had dinner at "Lomito's," a 50's looking diner with hot dogs and beer.  Kind of a cool place, especially after such a long bus journey.

Heading out of Punta Arenas, with a view of Tierra del Fuego in the distance, across the water


We found some info, mostly letting us down, believing we couldn't get there in time.  I remember going to bed, pretty bummed, thinking that we'd get there after New Year's, but not for it, and that's been our plan for a while...

We slept like champions in one of the most comfortable colchones (mattresses) in a while, and woke, had some Yerba Mate.  I walked straight to the company doing the trip that morning to Ushuaia, to see if maybe someone had canceled, but to no avail it was a huge tour group, with months of reservations ahead of us...

When I got back, I decided to see if maybe we could figure out another route.  Instead of Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, I thought, well, maybe Rio Gallegos (Argentina) has more buses, or at least options on getting there.  First I searched for buses from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia, and sure enough found the company "Tecni Austral" was doing the journey the next morning, and had spaces left.  I kept the page open as I attempted another search for buses from Punta Arenas to Rio Gallegos, and sure enough, found one as well, aboard "Pinguino," leaving at noon.

I quickly typed in my credit card details as if they were going out of style, and felt excited and relieved.  The nice woman at El Mirador offered to print out our tickets for us, to save us from going to an internet cafe, and we had done it.  Next stop, Argentina.  Again.  Of course though, not before crossing the same border again.  Wow, it seems our passports will not have any room left in them after this trip.

As for our decision at this point, to travel through a Chilean company, even though it was cheaper for the tickets, we ended up paying more in the long run.  Sure, we had a comfortable journey, and got to see the famed city of Osorno, which was actually kinda fun, it was unnecessary to say the least.  We could have been picked up in Bolson, hopped aboard, and left out the whole border crossing nonsense, and went directly to Rio Gallegos, but guess what, we have much more of a story to tell this way!  Oh, and the Chilean buses do not serve meals.  They gave us a bit of white bread, with a pinch of ham and cheese for lunch the first day, and the second, they just pulled into some expensive rest stops and said "Almuerzo."  Let's see...$30 for lunch (empanadas and a shitty glass of wine.  And, I almost forgot to mention, the horrid movie selection that began with a movie called "Journey to the Mysterious Island," featuring Dwayne 'The Rock' Johnson, and continued with a movie starring none other than Brendan Frasier, where raccoons and squirrels are trying to drive his family out of town...Wow, thanks Chile for all of that!  At least the Argentine buses served us a hot lunch.  I'll try and keep all that in mind for the next decision making process...

Friday, December 6, 2013

Volunteering at 'Light House 42' on Rio Azul

After our Camping in Bolson and Lago Puelo, we wanted to find another volunteer spot.  Nobody on HelpX had replied to us, and we felt as if it was just the busy season approaching.  While at Lago Puelo, we met Vivian and Michael, from Czech Republic, and they told us of a spot back at Rio Azul, that they happened upon.  A group of people were getting together to build a sustainable community on a beautiful piece of land next to Rio Azul, just behind the town of El Bolson.


Vivian sent an email, telling them that we were looking to volunteer, and we had the invite to come check it out.  The directions on getting there were a little iffy, and we walked past the entrance, and down a trail by the river, to where we thought the property was.  Nobody came all day, and we ended up pitching the tent by the river for the night, which was gorgeous and not to mention, a free night of camping...



The next day we checked all over the property a couple times, and nobody was around.  I was getting the feeling we weren't in the right spot to begin with...I walked back to El Bolson, and halfway there, got picked up, hitch-hiking.  Went to an internet spot, and hadn't heard from them, so I went back to get Danica, at the river and thought maybe we'd camp out in Bolson again, while we plan our next move.

As we gathered up our camp, and walked back towards the dirt road by the riverbank, I heard someone hammering in the distance, on a property with an old barbed wire fence around it.  I decided to go check it out and see if someone there knew of 'Light House 42,' the name of the project...

It turned out to be Shannon, and her boyfriend Nahuel, the people we had talked with, and I had been looking on their neighbor's property.  She asked if we still wanted to volunteer for a week or so, and we obviously did.  We set up our tent on the massive property surrounded by huge bushes of Rose Hips, or "Mosqueta" in Spanish, that are like huge rose bushes with 3 times the thorns.




We started helping around the property, on several projects, ranging from shoveling gravel, to digging drainage trenches, and coming up with new ideas for the building projects on the existing old house, also, clearing out Mosqueta.

Looking back now, we spent 3 weeks volunteering there, and have made new friends, as well as were able to offer some help and ideas towards their project.

"Light House" 42, as they call it, is a group of folks with a gorgeous, river front property, looking to build sustainably, and create a community in the hills behind El Bolson.  Shannon, Jon, and Nahuel, have been the active ones, getting the land livable for their approaching move there.  Their neighbor, Pastor, has a similar project going on, and was another great guy to meet.

We were stoked to be able to offer some ideas and helping hands to what they already have going on.  I built an outside patio table for them, and spent a good couple weeks building them a brand new kitchen counter, using only recycled/things around the property, then installed a new sink and plumbing.  Danica, again, employed her artistic techniques around the place, painting, and building a shelf from tree branches.










 Not only were all of them really awesome people, but we learned a lot as well.  A fucnny, and another small-world connection was figured out during our first week, when Danica, being from the Bay Area of California, thought she recognized Jon...Turns out, Jon is from San Jose, and the two of them met at a party, some 7 years ago!  Wow, this world just seems to get smaller and smaller as we get further and further away from home!

We spent Christmas with Jon and Shannon, and had a blast, hiking up the river to an amazing water hole, and eating some delicious food.  We'd love to come back sometime!





For now, it's down the road...Way down.  Tine to jump aboard a 30 hour Chilean bus, all the way to Punta Arenas, Chile's biggest southern city, before making our way to Ushuaia!

Danica and Shannon, before we left

'Brewski' their awesome dog

Check out Light House 42 on Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/LightHouse42

Saturday, November 30, 2013

Lago Puelo

A gorgeous lake and national park, situated just south-west of El Bolson, and surrounded by thick pine forest and snowy Andes.  Although we've been in Patagonia now for a couple weeks, this is what I imagined it to be...It's wild and untouched; All of the surroundings.  We found a campground, right by the lake shore, and we have literally been the only ones here, other than a couple from Czech we met the other day.  They just started their trip in Buenos Aires a couple weeks ago, and bought a Toyota Tundra with an awesome pop up camper on the back, from a guy selling it in BA.  Cool folks.  We drank Yerba Mate with them and made lentil patty burgers for dinner on the fire...Hopefully we'll run into them again down the road.



Fishing is one of my favorite past-times, and growing up trout fishing in the Santa Barbara mountains, and having a sailboat on the Pacific for 4 years, I've been in need of a fix.  I brought a pole with me, and have been carrying it since Costa Rica, where it broke, was fixed, then broke again in Ecuador, and still haven't caught a thing on this entire trip...After 2 days of trying the river mouth here, and finally ending up in front of the breakwater of the small marina, I caught us some dinner last night.  Feels great to be able to fish, let alone to bring home some food.  Planning on plenty more of it to come!

 
Killing some time and taking in scenery is what we've got going on for a bit, then we'll need to figure out our passage further south.  Ushuaia's on the list, so there's still plenty of traveling left to do...Actually much more traveling, as we finally booked our flight back home in March, and we've gotta get all the way back up to Lima!  It's not like we're not used to taking long bus rides by now...

Sunday, November 24, 2013

El Bolsón

The 'hippie' town, as most call it, is a great little place.  We arrived Sunday, on a 2 hour bus ride from Bariloche, with, again, great surroundings the whole way.  Winding through valleys of tall, snow covered mountains and crystal blue rivers and lakes.


Awesome tree carving in the park

Might I first mention in this post, that while traveling so far, we've had some strange and 'small world' connections and coincidences...One very notable one happened again, for the 4th time while on this bus...History goes, that while we were in Panama (Boquete) to be exact, in April of this year, near the start of our trip, we met a French couple at our hostel.  Turns out they were also traveling all the way down South America, and we briefly exchanged ideas...That was that.  Then, while we were in Ecuador, 2 months later, we exchanged glances, crossing a street in the pouring rain, and I said to Danica..."Whoah, that's that couple from Panama!"  That was all at the time.  Then, on our 22 hour bus ride to Bariloche from Mendoza, him and I passed eachother at the terminal, halfway through our trip.  At that point, we both smiled and started talking about how crazy it is to do that not only once, but 3 times!  We talked a little about places we'd been in the rest stop we had, and then we continued to Bariloche.  We ended up spending almost a week there, and never saw them, until we got on the bus to El Bolsón, and they boarded about 10 minutes after us.  Finally, when we all got off at the bus terminal there, we had a good chat about it all.  Unfortunately we didn't exchange info, but judging by our ways of intersecting at random moments, I imagine we'll see them again!  Infact, I'm pretty sure of it.

As for El Bolsón, we really enjoyed it.  We found a campground called "Refugio Patagonico" not far from the bus terminal, and they had a massive yard with tons of campsites,and we were 2 of maybe 5 people there in total.  The guys running the place were super nice, and gave us a great deal to camp for a week, so we did just that.  We had a comfortable campsite with nice grass, a great fire pit and grill, and the place had wifi, which was a bonus.  The people working there gave us tons of local info on what to do in the area.  As of this point so far, Argentinos have been some of the nicest, most helpful people we've come across thus far...Not knocking any other countries, as everyone has been amazing, but these people seem extra friendly!




We spent our thanksgiving holiday there, and actually, it turned out to be 2 days in a row, because we were off a day, and thought we were celebrating it correctly...We cooked some great food on the grill, including mashed potatoes and chorizo and chicken, and sipped some delicious Mendocino Champagne to say the least.



After our week there, we decided on coming slightly south-west, almost to the border of Chile, to a lake called Lago Puelo, to do some more camping...



Rio Azul, a one hour walk from Bolson

Monday, November 18, 2013

Bariloche, Patagonia!

A gorgeous spot, right on a huge lake surrounded by Patagonian Andes, covered in snow.  We arrived in Bariloche aboard the 22 hour bus ride from Argentina, it was pretty brutal, but amazing scenery the whole way was a pleasant companion.  Our dream of making it to Patagonia has finally happened...Patagonia is gigantic, as it is the entire southern part of Argentina as well as Chile.  We'll see how far south we get!


Spent 5 days at 'Punto Sur' Hostel, which had a grill out back, which we used almost every night, to barbeque some dinner, or "Asado," as the Argentinos call it.  And, yes, Argentinian beef is amazing, like everyone says, and super cheap! 

One of our asado nights...
 Bariloche apparently has a ton of German settlers who ended up there.  The structures look very German, with some other European style, and the town is full of chocolate shops, featuring locally made chocolate, which was delicious.  There's also a ton of breweries, and we found a great one (from Mar de Plata) called "Antares," which had about 9 beers on tap, and a great happy hour (2 for 1 pints)...



During our stay, we walked the town, and finally found a guitar shop willing to repair my acoustic (on the cheap).  We dropped it off, and it was ready the next day about 5pm.  Guy did a great job, fixed the action, tightened the neck rod, and cleaned 'er up with some new strings.  What a relief...I would be pretty bummed if it was beyond repair...

We searched and searched for a volunteer gig in the area, without much luck...It turned out, after our second day at Punto Sur Hostel, we found out they had a listing on HelpX, and we didn't know about it...Would have been a great spot to work for a bit, but another couple, Rachelle and Don, from the States had it planned out.

Met some cool folks there, and decided to head down the road to El Bolson, where we could possibly find work, and definitely find some camping spots...As for our entrance to Patagonia, it was none other than gorgeous, and will probably get even more beautiful as we head south.  The plan as of now is to spend New Years in Ushuaia, aka the bottom of the world!  Booked a hostel for a couple nights there, and now we've got some time to kill!
Paraglider over the lake
Classic 'German' style architecture downtown
This is the lake right in front of the town

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Argentina, here we come...

An overnight bus, aboard 'Andesmar' from Santiago, would lead us to the border crossing at 3AM, with a very smooth transfer from Chile into Argentina, (apart from our having to pay a whopping $160 to enter the country).  At least it's good for 10 years...

We were told that the border can take anywhere from an hour to 4 hours to cross, but in our case, we zipped through, nobody checked any luggage, and we were in Argentina while it was still dark out...

We arrived at the Mendoza bus terminal at 5AM, which was brutal.  There was nothing open, and we found a bench just inside to sit on and wait...

At about 6:30, we jumped in a cab, and headed towards a hostel that was in our book.  They seemed to have closed down, so the next one on the list was "DamaJuana" on Calle VillaNueva.  They offered a dorm room to us, with  nobody in it, and we quickly went downstairs and went back to bed to catch up on some sleep.

We woke up at about noon, and realized we were actually in Argentina!  Spent the day walking around, searching for a spot to change some US cash, and a music shop to get my guitar fixed.

No luck on the guitar the first day, and the second day, we decided to change hostels, as a friend of mine, Patrick, from back home, lived in Mendoza for a bit, and worked at 'Lagares' on the other side of town, so we headed over to actually ask if they needed any help.  We grabbed our stuff and trudged it for a couple kilometers, and found the spot.  Javier, the owner was at the desk, and not only did they not need help, but didn't have room for us to stay!  Bummer, we thought, but he came up with the idea that we could leave our stuff in the storage room, and at 4AM, 2 girls were leaving on a bus, so we could take their beds for half price.  This worked out perfectly, because NOBODY in Mendoza goes to bed before 5AM!  Javier was super nice, and we ended up staying at Lagares for another 3 nights, and he gave us a killer deal.

We booked the wine/bike tour, that everybody talks about through him (the hostel offers bikes from 'Mr. Hugo' for free if you stay 4 nights), and we did this on our last day in town.

Mendoza was much bigger than we imagined, but had a nice feel to it.  Desert-like scenery all around, with a distant view of Andean peaks.  We walked all around the city, and to the main park, which was gigantic.  There, was a a peak to walk up, called "Cerro Gloria," where you get a great panorama of the whole city, and surroundings.





The trip to Mendoza was successful all in all, we found the part I needed for my guitar, got a good exchange rate on some US currency, and fulfilled our yearning to wine taste in Argentina on bicycles..."Mr. Hugo's" bike rental turned out to be amazing, and we rode with a German guy named Marcos for the day, visiting about 5 wineries, including a wine museum, an olive oil factory/homemade craft liquor shop, where we got to taste Argentinian absinthe, among others, and delicious balsamic vinegars, and we ended the day at a craft brew garden, where we sat in some comfortable chairs and were served delicious fresh-out-the-oven empanadas.

The Wine Museum
Tasting Room

Home-made liquor tasting
Marcos, Danica and I at a winery

At the 'Beer Garden' good beers and amazing empanadas
We hurried back to Mr. Hugo's rental shop, to meet our 7pm return deadline, and were given a proper police escort, as they followed closely behind Danica, with her wine bottles in basket, on a police motorcycle and a pickup truck.  Quite a sight to see!  Upon arrival back to Mr. Hugo's, he greeted us with a smile, and told us he had something to give us...We hadn't even met him that morning, as we were helped by a younger guy, Hugo comes out bearing 2 bottles of white wine, and tells us to 'pour them over ice, and enjoy!'  What a nice guy, we had a blast.

Danica followed by her police escort
Next on our minds was the 9:30 departure of our pre-booked bus to Bariloche, which was going to be 19 hours or so...We had to get back to Lagares, grab our stuff and rush to the bus terminal.

We made it, with only a couple minutes to spare, and hopped aboard, with a couple shitty sandwiches we grabbed on the run, to make up for dinner...Our journey that night would lead us into the north, and beginning of Patagonia, and we were about to experience the start of where we'd been planning on making it to, and furthermore, our destination!!!

Best desert wine we've ever had...Di Tommaso "Vino Generoso," from the winery in Mendoza...