In closing... And, some travel tips...

We did it!  9 countries, over 14,000 miles traveled, with our big backpacks, and 2 guitars, and most of the time, a huge (and sometimes spilling) bag of food.  Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay.  Hundreds of buses, a few boats, some hitch-hiking and a lot of walking...We did it, and more importantly, we made it home in one piece, without being robbed or having fallen ill.  We drank the water in most places, right from the tap, unless someone stated it was not safe.  We also did most of our hiking in our very versatile Converse hi-tops, which have now seen better days.  I think one of the best memories of wearing those things, was our 4:30 AM hike up to Machu Picchu, where we passed maybe 30 people in the rain, who all had hiking poles and fancy footwear, and I'm sure they were all saying "fu*%$#ng Americans!"

Looking back at our trip now, there's so much to reflect on, obviously.  A few things I'd like to point out to any and all future travelers from wherever: Don't listen to anyone who hasn't traveled, regarding your plans...They don't, and will not understand!  Also, use your head...Most things we experienced were common sense.  Have a small first aid kit, of course, but don't go into a trip feeling afraid that in some "third world" country, you're going to get really sick...because you probably will.

Some frustrating things regarding trip planning for us were the travel doctor's advice, and of course, the bill!  It really depends on where you're planning to go on a trip, but in most cases, you can get any shots that you need there...And do your research regarding what kind of shots you need to travel, because in most cases you don't need anything!  Here are a few examples of how much BS I've gotten from the medical field regarding travel.

In 2007, I was about to visit Costa Rica for the first time...My grandmother was worried about me getting my proper shots updated, and took me to a travel doctor in my town.  I needed a tetanus shot, which was normal, as it had been several years since my last.  I was also given a hep-b booster shot, which was also pretty normal.  Then, the doctor told me that since I was heading into the Tropics, that I needed to watch a video on Malaria, and also to purchase and start taking Chloroquine, which is a quinine based medication that treats and prevents Malaria (in some parts of the world).  I began taking it a week before leaving on my trip, and spent the first three weeks with some really bad headaches from that stuff.  Finally, my friend Terry who I was staying with, asked me what the bottle was that was sitting on his counter, and I explained it was for Malaria...He laughed, and told me there hasn't been any Malaria in Costa Rica for about 30 years.  Then, I found out that Chloroquine is not effective against Malaria in the Americas.  It only works for some strain that's found in Africa!  I had been tricked, and more importantly, that particular travel doctor was an idiot, and didn't know his facts.

Fast forwarding several years later to this particular trip, and our preparation for it, I did need to get some booster shots.  The tetanus and the two hep boosters were something I felt I should receive prior to traveling all over Latin America...I went to another travel doctor in my town, who not only tried to talk me into getting anti Malaria pills, but also tried to give me Chloroquine, which I assured her, DOESN'T even work there!  Then, she gave me a Yellow Fever vaccination, which I had heard about, and was told it was needed to get into Bolivia, where apparently it is rampant.  That little pin prick was a whopping $150!  Anyways, we both got our shots, including Yellow Fever, which the travel doctor gave us each an updated vaccine card to travel with.  Now, here is the funny part...When we got to the border of Bolivia, we had to pay a reciprocity fee that we were well aware of for US citizens...We paid it in cash, and while getting stamped into the country, I had my vaccination card in my hand waiting for them to ask for it...They never did.  And, not only did they not ask for proof of Yellow Fever vaccination, during our entire month in Bolivia, we never saw ONE mosquito, because we were never below 3,500 meters in altitude!  I was pissed.  That one hundred fifty dollars was a huge scam, and a waste, if you ask me...We also found out that you can get the Yellow Fever vaccine for about $15 in Peru, or Bolivia.  To summarize, Bolivia does not need you to have proof of a Yellow Fever Vaccine, and it's completely up to you to get it if you want to.

Like I said, do your research before traveling, because you can save yourself some money, and hassle, if you know what you'll need.  As for public safety in places that are dangerous, whether fact or fiction, keep a look out.  Always keep your valuable items hidden, such as passports and wallets.  Always check your pockets, and don't keep anything in there that could be easily snatched.  This goes for any city in the world!  It's not just Latin America where you can get mugged, it's anywhere.  We were extremely lucky on our trip, and the only thing that was stolen, so to speak, was Danica's camera, after way too many shots of Aguardiente in Ecuador.  She left it sitting on the bar, which was obviously our own fault.  I was some what paranoid in especially the bigger cities, and always looked around, and always felt my pockets.  Use your brain, but don't get discouraged from traveling because you think it's dangerous.  Everything is dangerous...Using your cell phone, or crossing the street!  I had so many people tell me things like, "you're going to Colombia?"  Or, "you're crazy!"  Maybe we are crazy, but this trip needed to happen, and I never would have known the true beauty and kindness of these places without seeing them for myself.

Bienvenidos a Panamá! Border crossing & Bocas Del Toro: Isla Bastimentos

We woke up early, at Rocking J's, and jumped on the shuttle van with all of our stuff.  We arrived at the border town of Sixaola at about 8am, and proceeded to the immigration window for Costa Rica.  There was some kind of argument going on between a border patrol guard and a truck driver coming across from the Panamanian side.  The two guys were yelling at eachother, until a couple cops showed up and calmed them down.  We got our passports stamped out, and we approached the bridge to Panama.  The bridge between these two countries is horrific.  It's an old train bridge made out of wood, that's completely falling apart.  There's huge gaps in the boards that you walk on, and many of them are loose.  The river below is a raging torrent, and is apparently infested with crocodiles.  That morning we weren't feeling so hot, seeing as though we drank a decent amount of Cacique the night before, celebrating our last night in Costa Rica!  During our approximately 10 minute walk across the bridge with all of our stuff, (my heavy-ass backpack, acoustic guitar, and big bag of food), I literally thought I was going to fall through the bridge, and to my demise in the river below...

Well, we made it, to the other side, and then had to wait at least 20 minutes in the inferno of humidity that the Sixaola border crossing was, until our turn to get stamped into Panama.  When we got to the window, the gentleman asked us for our 'proof of exit,' as many speak of...Basically the Panamanian government, like the Tico government, wants to see proof of you leaving their country.  Well, we happened to have an expired Spirit Airlines ticket that we returned at the airport upon our arrival, and quickly handed it over to the guy.  He looked it over a couple times, then stamped our passports and handed them back.  We were accepted!  Now we just needed to pay the next guy $3 each to enter the country.  Of course, neither of us had $3, and I suddenly remembered I had a hundred dollar bill tucked away in my wallet.  Of course, the guy didn't have any change.  It took me about 20 minutes to find change, which was in the form of a German girl traveling on the same route, gave me 6 bucks, and said "don't worry about it..."  Very nice of her, and if I ever see her again, I will repay her!  Anyways, long story short...Bring some small change to this border crossing, it will make your life a whole lot easier!

We arrived in Bocas, and went directly to Isla Bastimentos, expecting to spend a couple days on the island.  Ended up being 10 days, and a great experience.  We recommend staying at Hostal Bastimentos.  This portion of our trip was one of our favorite.  Everyone we've met along the way, we try to convince to go here.  Hostal Bastimentos is awesome.  It was my second time being there, the first was in '09 for about 4 days while I got my diving certification through the then-nearby dive shop, which has since changed hands.  We met Patrick upon arrival to the hostel, and he does a great job running the place, as well as cooking amazing food out back in his "Jungle Garden Cafe."  Enrique, the owner is a really nice guy as well, and all of the other guests/travelers staying there turned out to be super cool.  We spent a good 10 days on the island, and made some great friends staying at the hostel...Lars, the Swiss guy, Hannah, the German girl, Mike, the Texan, Alex, the English guy, and Simon, the quiet German guy.  We would wind up running into several of them, again,  down the road...

Boat ride to Bocas

There's an awesome beach "Wizard's" on the backside of the island, only a half hour's walk, and apart from being a great surf spot, the water is crystal clear.

There's a coffee shop called "Up in the Hill," literally a 10 minute walk out the back door of the hostel, and up the hill, on the way to the beach.  They serve locally grown, organic Panamanian coffee, as well as tons of natural, organic skin care and health care products, like coconut oil.  We stocked up on coconut oil there, and apart from being great for your skin/health, it is the BEST form of mosquito repellent we've found yet.  They have amazing prices on it as well, especially for the quality.  Oh, and they also have organic home-made kombucha!  Be sure to say hello to Brandy if she's working.

Don't let the big name of Bocas Del Toro fool you, Bastimentos is where it's at.  It's fairly cheap on the island.  The little grocery store has everything you need to cook yourself a good meal, and keep your palate wet.

 

The clear water of Wizard's Beach

El Mar Caribe: Puerto Viejo y Manzanillo

We arrived after a long day on he bus from San Jose, in Puerto Viejo.  We got off the bus, and walked down the road to Rocking J's Hostel, which is a must see for everyone.  It's about a 15 minute walk from where the bus drops you off.  Rocking J's in the biggest hostel I've ever been to.  It can get a little loud and crazy there, but it really is one of those places you must visit, at least once.  This was my second time...


We spent one night there, and decided to head down the road to Manzanillo for a night or two.  We woke up that morning and started walking along the road to Manzanillo.  It's a gorgeous walk, and a totally flat road, that winds through some jungle setting, and beach front views.  We stopped at a little organic coffee shop along the way, had some iced coffee and granola with yogurt, and continued our journey.  By about 11am it was burning up.  The temperature and humidity combined were killing us.  We kept going, but I don't think we said one word to eachother for a couple hours.  My bags felt heavier than ever.  We finally stopped about half way, and walked out to the beach, where I found some pipas (baby coconuts), and cut a few open to quench my thirst.  Danica didn't want any, even though I insisted it was necessary...
We kept going, and came upon the sign pointing to the tiny beach town of Punta Uva, where we sat down and relaxed a little bit.  We walked back out to the main road, and continued towards Manzanillo.  We kept going, and were almost there, when I decided to put out my thumb and hitch-hike the rest of the way.  We already had walked about 12 miles.  A pickup truck pulled over, and offered us a ride.  We jumped in, and literally right around the next bend was Manzanillo.  Either way, it was a nice relief, and we were exhausted.  We found a little hostel called "Funky Manza Pizza," that was a pizza place with a small hostel behind it.  There was an Argentinian couple, Lucas and Flor, running the place, temporarily, while on a stop on their trip in a Cadillac Limousine from Patagonia to Alaska.  They were super nice, and let us set up our tent out front of the restaurant that night, instead of paying full price for the hostel.  That night, it rained on us, and Danica got super sick.  Luckily she felt better the next day, and we stayed one more night.  We exchanged some stories with Lucas and Flor, and set off back up the road for what would be our last night in Costa Rica, back at Rocking J's...

Snorkeling at Manzanillo

Lucas and Flor's awesome Limo

Manzanillo Sunset

Mosaic art at Rocking J's Hostel

Manuel Antonio: town and national park

We spent a couple nights in the town of Manuel Antonio, and the second day, went into the National Park.  We were aware that it is Costa Rica's most popular tourist destination, and expected to see swarms of tourists, even in the off season...

Sure enough, the beach in Manuel Antonio was packed, but we stayed off the beaten path, walked through the jungle, saw some amazing creatures, and went back to the beach as it started getting later in the day.  When we got back there, we were the only people there, which was quite a treat, and made for an amazing photo op, with the sunset that night being epic.  I guess the park closes at sunset, and sure enough a security guard came down to the beach to tell us to leave, but that little while of solidarity was perfect.  It's only $10 to enter the park for the day.

 

Sunset over Manuel Antonio from "El Baile de la Iguana," our hotel for the  night

Puerto Jimenez and Corcovado National Park

We arrived in Puerto Jimenez, after Drake Bay, in hopes to stay a couple nights and get into Corcovado National Park for a visit.  On our 'travel time,' we didn't realize that it was Easter week, and one of the most difficult times to travel in Costa Rica.  It's called Semana Santa (Saint's Week), and buses often don't run, as well as many stores remain closed.  The most difficult time is Thursday and Friday of this week, when there is a liquor ban in every store, restaurant and bar.  Not such a big deal it seems, but we were so bored in Puerto Jimenez during this week, that all we wanted on Thursday afternoon was a cold beer!

Puerto Jimenez is tourist oriented because of the proximity to the national park, but there's not much to do there...We spent a lot of time walking around, and hanging out on the balcony of our hostel...

Somehow we managed to find a guy selling some brewskies out of the back of his ride.  He opened the door, and had a cooler filled with beer.  We bought a six pack of 'Panama,' which turned out to be quite refreshing in the southern Osa Peninsula heat.  It also poured rain a couple days there...

Some locals playing with a football in the sea in the pouring rain

Corcovado National Park:

Corcovado is a MUST SEE for everyone!  I've never seen so many animals in the wild, in my life.  Day trips are only

$10 to enter, and an additional $18 or so for the transportation in and out of the park.  If you have the time, I highly recommend doing at least one night in the park.  You can start in Carate, and hike into Sirena Station, which is an all day hike, spend the night there, and hike back the next day, or stay another night, in order to enjoy all that surrounds the station.  On my Costa Rica trip in 2009, I spent two nights at Sirena, and saw some epic wildlife, including Crocs, Tapirs, Anteaters, etc...This time around we did the day trip, and it was well worth it.  It's much cheaper, and we were lucky enough to see some amazing things, as well as have the trails all to ourselves.

 

One night in Drake Bay

We had been recommended to visit Drake.  Our plan was to pass through, by way of Sierpe, on the way towards Puerto Jimenez, and Corcovado National Park.  After finding our camp spot, we sort of dreaded our dinner ingredients, as it was just rice and onion...There were a couple guys camping just across from us, and were fumbling with their flashlight trying to cook dinner, and we offered them our headlamp.  They were grateful, and offered us dinner, which turned out to be a delicious pasta carbonara, Tico style.

Drake's Bay gets its name from the famed Sir Frances Drake, the English pirate, who apparently hid some buried treasure near here...The bay was gorgeous.  We camped in our tent, right in front of a resort/hotel called Rancho Corcovado, and were rained on slightly that night.  We woke up to a stunning view of the bay, and a giant sailboat coming in to anchor.  We hiked the trail into the jungle for a few hours, swam in the ocean a bit, then jumped on the 'bus' to Puerto Jimenez.  More of a van really, and it was quite an experience.  One of the tires wouldn't hold air, and we kept stopping to top off.

Hiking through the jungle in Bahia Drake

Sierpe - Best way to get to Drake Bay!

Sierpe is a little town on the river, with a small marina.  We were told this was a must-do, in order to get to Drake's Bay.  So glad we did it.  We left Uvita, and took a bus to Palmar Norte, then a cab to Sierpe.  While waiting for our 3:00 boat, we saw a huge crocodile cruising through the river eating fish.  The boat ride from Sierpe to Drake is quite unbelievable.  It only takes about an hour, and you race through the wide river, then into narrow mangrove passages, then the boat jets out into the river mouth, dodging waves, until out in the open Pacific ocean.  We were then dropped off right on the shore of Bahia Drake, where everything is close by.  Highly recommend it!

Uvita...Beautiful beach and national park

We left Dominical that morning, and jumped on the bus to Uvita.  It's only about 15 mins down the highway, but not recommended to walk, due to the lack of space on the side of the highway, and fast, crazy drivers.  We arrived and got off the bus right across the street from the "BM" supermarket, and were a little clueless as to which direction to go.  We then decided to head to Flutterby House, and jumped in a cab.  Turns out, it's right down the road, about 1km, and we should have walked...

Uvita is awesome.  It's a small town that's fairly spread out.  The beach (part of the Marino Ballena National Park) it unbelievable.  Long, sandy beach, with hardly any rocks, makes for great swimming, and surfing.  At low tide, the 'whale's tail' can be seen, and it is just that...Up in the hills, about an hour's walk, is a beautiful waterfall, and an amazing little restaurant just above it.  Might I recommend the fish taco...The water hole just beneath the falls, is deep and very refreshing.  

Flutterby House, the hostel we stayed at, is one of the most unique you will find!  It was our first real hostel experience of the trip, and we met some great people there in our almost week of camping at Flutterby...There was Pete, the surfer from Maine, who ran after us on our departure to deliver my sunglasses I had lost, Esteban, the Tico working the counter, Jason and Maria, the couple working there as well, Ian from Alaska, Dave from Northern California, Pat from Alabama, Autumn and Elden, and the owners Pam and Kim, among several other travelers who were staying as well...As I mentioned, we set our tent up on the premises and stayed about a week.  Had a bonfire one night on the beach with Autumn and Elden, the East Coasters, and ended up playing a little concert in front of the bar one night.  Great place, with one of the best kitchens to date, and a beautiful design on their property, with treehouses, and places to camp...Love to return someday!

Amazingly huge Bahia Ballena Beach

Flutterby House:

Dominical: Pacific surf beauty

Our first time away from our friends, and on our own.  We left Perez Zeledon that morning, jumped on the very packed bus to Dominical, and arrived within about 2 hours down the winding mountain road.  Spent 2 nights in Dominical, met some cool people, and continued on our way.  We spent our first night at Tortilla Flats hostel, which was kind of scummy.  We arrived just at sunset, and the first two hostels we tried were full, so we kept walking towards the beach and found Tortilla Flats.  It's literally right on the beach, so the location is great, but the room was upstairs from the bar, very noisy, and there were bugs in the bed.  At about 4am, the trash men came to empty the dumpster, and the room was instantly filled with the scent of rotting papaya, which is not a pleasant smell!  Our second night was spent right down the path, at Antorchas hostel, which was cheaper, and much better.  Some points of interest in Dominical:

Maracatu: It's a restaurant with a vegetarian theme, serving fresh seafood as well.  They often have live music, and they serve a local Costa Rican craft beer on tap.  

The Refuge: A killer burger joint just down the beach, towards the south.  It's underneath the hostel called Pyramis.  Huge burgers, made with fresh ingredients.  Really a treat, when traveling!

Dominical has a couple small markets, an ATM just up the road on the highway (walking distance), and several hostel options.  You can also camp on the beach.  Infact, most places in Costa Rica you can camp on the beach, but you should use caution, especially if you walk away from your belongings even for a minute.  We witnessed a guy, on his last night in Costa Rica, camped on the beach in Dominical, walk over to the bar for a beer, and when he returned to his hammock and bag, they were both gone.  Luckily his passport was in his pocket, but it was a necessary reminder to us, and all, to watch your stuff!

  

San Isidro de El General: Pura Vida!

We arrived in San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica, and went straight to the Musoc bus station to get to San Isidro (Perez Zeledon).  After about 3 and a half hours in the dense fog of the mountain pass, we made it to Perez, and were dropped off at the Musoc station downtown.  We had no cell phone, only a number, and a local was kind enough to let us borrow his cellphone to call my friend Terry.  Terry, a California native, who grew up in Costa Rica, since about age 7, is the one who originally introduced me to this beautiful country.  We met, while he spent a summer working in the states, and visiting his grandmother.  When he left California, he told me I had a place to stay if I ever felt like venturing south...The rest is history, and this trip is my third time visiting Costa Rica.

Terry and Gabby arrived in an old Mercedes Benz SUV, which looked like a tank.  We stopped at the local supermarket, and picked up beers, wine, and a whole chicken.  We then drove up the mountain to their house, where we proceeded to stay for almost 2 weeks, camping in the yard, under the overhang.  That night, Terry roasted the chicken on a tin can in the oven, with the can filled with spices and water, so that the steam rose, into the chicken while cooking, with the result of 2 hungry travelers being served an amazing meal of some of the tenderest, most delicious chicken ever!

San Isidro is an awesome town.  I'd say the population is around 200,000, so it's not huge, but there's everything you might need.  There's an amazing farmer's market ("Feria"), downtown, I believe 2 days a week, and I think it's Monday and Thursday, but don't quote me on that...It's the best, and biggest farmer's market I've ever seen!  There's everything from the freshest tropical fruits and veggies, to fresh meats and seafood.  We went there 2 times during our stay in San Isidro, and ate very well.

We were sort of secluded for our almost two weeks with Terry and Gabby at their house in the hills, so we ended up playing quite a bit of music there as well.

Our friends

Farmer's Market in San Isidro

Downtown San Isidro

Jammin' at Terry's house