Panamá City, and finding a sailboat to Colombia

We left Santa Catalina, and headed to Panamá City in search of a sailboat to Colombia.  After trying to research boats for over a month on the road, we heard, and figured it would be easiest in the capital, where a lot is going on...

We ended up in a hostel called Luna's Castle, which was pretty cool.  Very large, 3 story building, with a bar down below (that gets a little loud sometimes), but a cool place.  We met Guillem, the skipper of a sailboat that frequently does this passage, as we entered the hostel, and he talked us into the trip.  Only problem was we had to wait about a week for the boat to depart.  Many hostels here have info on sailing trips to Colombia and San Blas Islands.  Apparently Luna's Castle and Mama Llena are the biggest ones, with the most info.

First night there, we ran into Juan, a Spaniard we met in Boquete, back up the road...Ended up hanging out for a couple nights, and laughing, again, about our stay in Boquete at Palacios Hostel...

Panamá City is huge, but we found it to be very hot, and a little boring, especially with spending a whole week there...If you plan on spending some time there, stay in Casco Viejo, or at least do some exploring in this old neighborhood.  It has some great architecture, and some nice sightseeing opportunities.  There's a great little brewery right around the corner from Luna's Castle called "Rana Dorada," that has four beers on tap.  My favorite was the Porter, which was a pleasant change from Balboa and Panamá.

Finally our week in the Panamanian heat came to an end, and we crammed into a Toyota 4runner, with 2 other guys, headed towards the Caribbean coast to board our ship.

 

 

Santa Catalina - Surfer's Paradise

Our plan was to bus it to Santa Catalina from Boca Brava, which is easily an 8 hour day (or more) of travel, on several different buses.  We got word of Brad, the owner at Hotel Boca Brava, heading to Santa Catalina that day, so we were lucky enough to hitch a ride, along with the Polish couple we met on the island.  All five of us crammed into Brad's station wagon, with 2 of our bags tied up on the top racks with some lumber he was transporting.  We stopped in Santiago, at a hardware store, and dropped off the Polish couple, as they were to stay with some friends in Santiago for the night.  We helped Brad tie some new patio chairs onto the top of the car, and we were off towards the beach.  We ended up staying at his other hotel in Santa Catalina that night, called Surfside Inn, that was really nice as well.  Only problem, was our room had no screen on the window, and hoards of mosquitoes were coming in.  We survived the night, and enjoyed cooking in the kitchen he had there.  We headed up the road a little ways, and spent the next four nights at Surfer's Paradise, where we camped right on the cliff for only $5 a night.  The view was spectacular.

We are not surfers, but Santa Catalina is a gorgeous place to visit, and very relaxing.  Keep in mind, that it's fairly undeveloped, and the only stores are 2 small markets, with minimal selections.  Also, there's no ATM in town, so keep that in mind!  There are several dive shops in town, and island trips are popular to book through here as well.  Glad we visited!

Our campsite on the cliff at "Surfer's Paradise" Hostel

The view from "Pinguino's" restaurant 

Isla Boca Brava (Pacific coast)

We were unsure about going to Isla Boca Brava...On the map it looked interesting, and we really wanted to see some of the Pacific islands, but we had heard it may be difficult getting there...

We decided to do it.  Leaving Boquete that morning, and heading first to David, then towards Boca Chica, the little port town on the Pacific.  The bus (van from David), dropped us off on the side of the highway, about 15 mins outside of Boca Chica...Sure enough, right as we got off the bus, a collectivo (little Toyota truck with a canvas cover on the back), showed up, and we jumped in the back with all of our stuff.  We drove down a bumpy dirt road for a bit, then they stopped right at the loading ramp into the Pacific Ocean, with Isla Boca Brava right across the channel.  It was only $1.50 per person in the collectivo.  We waited for about 45 mins for the little local grocery store to open, so we could buy some provisions, because there's nothing to buy on the island, except food from the hotel.  The boat ride (lancha) was 3 bucks a piece there and back.

Isla Boca Brava is absolutely gorgeous, and because it was slow season, there were literally only a couple other people there!  The hotel, located right on the cliff overlooking the ocean, was amazing, and the owner, Brad was very cool.  We hiked around the island a bit, saw plenty of howler monkeys, and rented a kayak the next day to explore more around the island.  We went pretty far, and got some amazing views of the surrounding Pacific Islands up close.  Highly recommended!

Being that it was the slow season, we were pretty much the only ones there...That evening, another couple from Poland showed up, and were staying in a room just down from ours.  We hung out that night, and realized we were doing similar trips heading into South America.  Cool people.

 

Howler monkey on Isla Boca Brava

Boquete, Panama

This place was talked about by many on our journey through Panama.  Glad we went!  After the tropical heat of Bocas Del Toro, and of course most of Costa Rica before that, we went to Boquete to cool off for a couple days.  Ended up staying 4 nights, and really enjoying it.  Lots of hikes, waterfalls, the volcano (Baru), many restaurants, and good company.

We spent our four nights in Boquete at a place called Hostal Palacios, which is actually the family home of Francisco "Pancho" Palacios, his wife, and their young son.  They were such crazy and awesome people!  They were filled with energy, and literally went out of their way to make sure everyone was enjoying themselves.  We spent the first night there sleeping in their laundry room, because they had no more vacant rooms...It was a little funky, but the next day we switched into a private room for $20 a night.  It was comfy, with a private bathroom, and we took advantage of their kitchen for a few of our meals for the next few days. 

What a crazy group of people in that small hostel...Made some friends, and met some straight up characters, and actually ran into many of them further on down the road, randomly.  Juan, Ivan, the couple from Arizona, the Canadian couple who got lost trying to find the Volcano, the 2 random American nuclear power plant workers, one of who could not stop hiccuping, the angry American guy who looked like the lead singer of the Offspring, and was pissed at the world, and not to forget, Don Angel, the wasted drunk Nicaraguan saxophone player, who couldn't play a tune for the life of him...What a crowd.  Non stop laughing to say the least, especially on behalf of the saxophonist, who had quite a night eating hard boiled eggs including the shell...Oh, and there was also the old man birdwatcher from Texas, who claimed to have the cure for cancer in his front pocket...

Boquete is only an hour bus ride from David, the second biggest city in Panama.

 

Some of our friends at "Palacios..." Nuclear worker man, Don Angel, Me, and Juan from Barcelona...

Bienvenidos a Panamá! Border crossing & Bocas Del Toro: Isla Bastimentos

We woke up early, at Rocking J's, and jumped on the shuttle van with all of our stuff.  We arrived at the border town of Sixaola at about 8am, and proceeded to the immigration window for Costa Rica.  There was some kind of argument going on between a border patrol guard and a truck driver coming across from the Panamanian side.  The two guys were yelling at eachother, until a couple cops showed up and calmed them down.  We got our passports stamped out, and we approached the bridge to Panama.  The bridge between these two countries is horrific.  It's an old train bridge made out of wood, that's completely falling apart.  There's huge gaps in the boards that you walk on, and many of them are loose.  The river below is a raging torrent, and is apparently infested with crocodiles.  That morning we weren't feeling so hot, seeing as though we drank a decent amount of Cacique the night before, celebrating our last night in Costa Rica!  During our approximately 10 minute walk across the bridge with all of our stuff, (my heavy-ass backpack, acoustic guitar, and big bag of food), I literally thought I was going to fall through the bridge, and to my demise in the river below...

Well, we made it, to the other side, and then had to wait at least 20 minutes in the inferno of humidity that the Sixaola border crossing was, until our turn to get stamped into Panama.  When we got to the window, the gentleman asked us for our 'proof of exit,' as many speak of...Basically the Panamanian government, like the Tico government, wants to see proof of you leaving their country.  Well, we happened to have an expired Spirit Airlines ticket that we returned at the airport upon our arrival, and quickly handed it over to the guy.  He looked it over a couple times, then stamped our passports and handed them back.  We were accepted!  Now we just needed to pay the next guy $3 each to enter the country.  Of course, neither of us had $3, and I suddenly remembered I had a hundred dollar bill tucked away in my wallet.  Of course, the guy didn't have any change.  It took me about 20 minutes to find change, which was in the form of a German girl traveling on the same route, gave me 6 bucks, and said "don't worry about it..."  Very nice of her, and if I ever see her again, I will repay her!  Anyways, long story short...Bring some small change to this border crossing, it will make your life a whole lot easier!

We arrived in Bocas, and went directly to Isla Bastimentos, expecting to spend a couple days on the island.  Ended up being 10 days, and a great experience.  We recommend staying at Hostal Bastimentos.  This portion of our trip was one of our favorite.  Everyone we've met along the way, we try to convince to go here.  Hostal Bastimentos is awesome.  It was my second time being there, the first was in '09 for about 4 days while I got my diving certification through the then-nearby dive shop, which has since changed hands.  We met Patrick upon arrival to the hostel, and he does a great job running the place, as well as cooking amazing food out back in his "Jungle Garden Cafe."  Enrique, the owner is a really nice guy as well, and all of the other guests/travelers staying there turned out to be super cool.  We spent a good 10 days on the island, and made some great friends staying at the hostel...Lars, the Swiss guy, Hannah, the German girl, Mike, the Texan, Alex, the English guy, and Simon, the quiet German guy.  We would wind up running into several of them, again,  down the road...

Boat ride to Bocas

There's an awesome beach "Wizard's" on the backside of the island, only a half hour's walk, and apart from being a great surf spot, the water is crystal clear.

There's a coffee shop called "Up in the Hill," literally a 10 minute walk out the back door of the hostel, and up the hill, on the way to the beach.  They serve locally grown, organic Panamanian coffee, as well as tons of natural, organic skin care and health care products, like coconut oil.  We stocked up on coconut oil there, and apart from being great for your skin/health, it is the BEST form of mosquito repellent we've found yet.  They have amazing prices on it as well, especially for the quality.  Oh, and they also have organic home-made kombucha!  Be sure to say hello to Brandy if she's working.

Don't let the big name of Bocas Del Toro fool you, Bastimentos is where it's at.  It's fairly cheap on the island.  The little grocery store has everything you need to cook yourself a good meal, and keep your palate wet.

 

The clear water of Wizard's Beach

El Mar Caribe: Puerto Viejo y Manzanillo

We arrived after a long day on he bus from San Jose, in Puerto Viejo.  We got off the bus, and walked down the road to Rocking J's Hostel, which is a must see for everyone.  It's about a 15 minute walk from where the bus drops you off.  Rocking J's in the biggest hostel I've ever been to.  It can get a little loud and crazy there, but it really is one of those places you must visit, at least once.  This was my second time...


We spent one night there, and decided to head down the road to Manzanillo for a night or two.  We woke up that morning and started walking along the road to Manzanillo.  It's a gorgeous walk, and a totally flat road, that winds through some jungle setting, and beach front views.  We stopped at a little organic coffee shop along the way, had some iced coffee and granola with yogurt, and continued our journey.  By about 11am it was burning up.  The temperature and humidity combined were killing us.  We kept going, but I don't think we said one word to eachother for a couple hours.  My bags felt heavier than ever.  We finally stopped about half way, and walked out to the beach, where I found some pipas (baby coconuts), and cut a few open to quench my thirst.  Danica didn't want any, even though I insisted it was necessary...
We kept going, and came upon the sign pointing to the tiny beach town of Punta Uva, where we sat down and relaxed a little bit.  We walked back out to the main road, and continued towards Manzanillo.  We kept going, and were almost there, when I decided to put out my thumb and hitch-hike the rest of the way.  We already had walked about 12 miles.  A pickup truck pulled over, and offered us a ride.  We jumped in, and literally right around the next bend was Manzanillo.  Either way, it was a nice relief, and we were exhausted.  We found a little hostel called "Funky Manza Pizza," that was a pizza place with a small hostel behind it.  There was an Argentinian couple, Lucas and Flor, running the place, temporarily, while on a stop on their trip in a Cadillac Limousine from Patagonia to Alaska.  They were super nice, and let us set up our tent out front of the restaurant that night, instead of paying full price for the hostel.  That night, it rained on us, and Danica got super sick.  Luckily she felt better the next day, and we stayed one more night.  We exchanged some stories with Lucas and Flor, and set off back up the road for what would be our last night in Costa Rica, back at Rocking J's...

Snorkeling at Manzanillo

Lucas and Flor's awesome Limo

Manzanillo Sunset

Mosaic art at Rocking J's Hostel

San Jose

This being my 3rd trip to Costa Rica, and having flown in and out of San Jose each time, we figured we'd stay for a night and see what it was all about.  Also, we were coming from Quepos/Manuel Antonio, and heading to Puerto Viejo, which in 1 day is exhausting...

I'm sure there's plenty to do here, but it wasn't in our best interest to find out.  Just one night at the Galileo Hostel was enough.

Manuel Antonio: town and national park

We spent a couple nights in the town of Manuel Antonio, and the second day, went into the National Park.  We were aware that it is Costa Rica's most popular tourist destination, and expected to see swarms of tourists, even in the off season...

Sure enough, the beach in Manuel Antonio was packed, but we stayed off the beaten path, walked through the jungle, saw some amazing creatures, and went back to the beach as it started getting later in the day.  When we got back there, we were the only people there, which was quite a treat, and made for an amazing photo op, with the sunset that night being epic.  I guess the park closes at sunset, and sure enough a security guard came down to the beach to tell us to leave, but that little while of solidarity was perfect.  It's only $10 to enter the park for the day.

 

Sunset over Manuel Antonio from "El Baile de la Iguana," our hotel for the  night

Quepos

We stayed in Quepos for only one night, before heading into the neighboring town of Manuel Antonio.  We stayed at a funky little hotel called Hotel Sanchez, right near downtown Quepos, and after checking in and leaving our stuff, we ventured out into the town to find some food and drink.  We visited a bar called "CanaTico," which turned out to be pretty cool.  Owned by a married couple (Canadian and Costarican).  They were very friendly, and the food (fish plate) was exceptionally good.